The Somers Town Coffee House in Chalton Street, Euston is the kind of rickety chaired hipster pub that serves non-alcoholic dog beer and has “reserved” written on its tables in chalk. The manager wears a buttoned up fitted shirt without a tie, skintight trousers and shoes George Costanza would call “complicated.” Don’t get me wrong. I don’t have anything against any of this. In fact, I quite like it. I’m just trying to let you know my surroundings pre-burger.
To be fair, the pub’s menu is loaded with tasty word bombs, which explode in my mouth as I read them. And for a minute, I was lost, until I notice the words “handmade classic beef burger” and how they seem to jump right off the page. Something about the place – the pastel bunting, the church pew seats, the teapots in the window – gave them special meaning. The implication was an elegantly understated meaty delight that didn’t need any dressing up (until I add chorizo relish and cheddar, that is).
Served in a brioche bun with burger relish, salad, steak house chips and a side of ant-sized coleslaw, the burger certainly looks the part when it arrives. And it tastes great as well. Nothing too flashy, just a simple, high quality presentation that tantalises my taste buds on its way down; fresh and emphatically handmade – like it was whipped up that morning.
The chorizo relish knocks it up a notch as well – bam – adding something a bit more wild and exotic to the burger’s simple delights. And of course, the melted cheddar topping seals the deal.