There isn’t really much to say about BIRD‘s Bacon & Cheese Burger. If anything, it’s an experience basted in understated glory.
Having already tried the Holloway Road-based joint’s outrageously decadent Original Waffle Burger I decided to spring for something slightly less debilitating – that, and I didn’t have the rest of the afternoon to sit around recuperating.
Straight away the Bacon & Cheese Burger calls out to me, with its beguiling combination of old meets new, Deep South meets Far East. The ingredients are simple: a crispy free-range chicken thigh, bacon, melted American cheese, BBQ sauce and house kewpie mayo.
In fact, if you’re looking for proof of a higher being, biting into BIRD chicken is the heavenly experience for you; impossibly crispy deep-fried exteriors that give way to tender, pillowy hunks of juicy chicken devoid of the grease you usually associate with such hedonism. The burger tastes fresh, light and unsettlingly refreshing.
Then the massive slices of bacon and American cheese grab your heart and drag you right back down to Earth, and the sweet-tasting brioche bun and creamy kewpie mayo seal the deal like a London real estate agent – no talking necessary. This is a bacon and cheese chicken burger for the soul. Nothing out of the ordinary, just high-quality ingredients put together with care, creativity and affection. Good at what it does but not quite as special and out-of-this-world as the Waffle Burger.
If you do want to BAM things up a notch, an order of BIRD’s Cheesy Korean Fries – American cheese sauce, house kewpie mayo and a spicy, peppery gochujang glaze – is the perfect gooey, tastebud-tickling side to wash your burger down with. DAMN, now I’m hungry.